If an egg stops completely and becomes embedded inside the hen this is can lead to serious problems. In this scenario the egg will eventually break inside the hen and the contents will start to ‘go off’ leading to infection which may end up causing Egg Yolk Peritonitis(EYP).

As soon as you notice that one of your hens is having problems laying eggs it may be time to consider an implant which will inhibit egg laying. Implanting your hen (the hen equivalent of the contraceptive pill) can help ensure a trouble free old age.

The implant itself is no bigger than a grain of rice and is somewhat similar to microchipping a pet dog or cat. The procedure has been around for several years now however, you may find you have to search for a vet with more experience of chickens to get the treatment administered. Once you have found someone to do it it is a straightforward and very quick procedure.

It does appear that prices across the country haven’t standardised as yet and at present there seem be a definite geographical divide with the North being generally cheaper. Best to shop around if you can find enough alternative centres in your area.

For the implant to become effective can take up to four weeks but it is likely to last for three to six months after which time the process can be repeated.

After implanting, the hen may go rather quiet for a few weeks. Her comb may fade to a pale pink and she may be less interested in food for a while. Depression and moulting have also been reported and this can cause a loss of body weight so extra high protein food (growers pellets or even chick crumb) and supplements should be offered.

Depending on how many hens you have you may prefer not to have them implanted all at the same time simply because of the after effects although, inevitably, the cost of the implant may reduce with larger numbers which could be a deciding factor.

Please bear in mind that you should not implant a hen just because she is getting older, rather wait until you see any obvious signs of a problem then take the appropriate action as soon as possible.

When the implant has become effective you are are likely to see a reduction in stress and, as well as EYP, you also reduce the risk of prolapse in to the bargain.

As you probably know chickens establish a hierarchy or ‘pecking order’ in any flock and newcomers will quickly be shown their place – sometimes with quite violent displays of aggression or by denying them access to food and water. For this reason it is best to integrate new birds in a way that reduces this initial confrontation to a minimum.

There are several ways to do this.

Sneak them in at night

This often works surprisingly well especially if you only have a small number of birds to be introduced. When your birds have gone to roost in the coop wait until they have become dozy and just pop the new additions in a space on the perch. When they all wake up you will often find that the original birds give the new ones the benefit of the doubt and the job is done. Make sure you are around when they wake up though as if your original chickens aren’t fooled you will have a fight on your hands and it is best to separate them and try method two.

Tactical treating

This method allows a period of time where the new chickens and the established ones get used to seeing and hearing one another. This is especially important if introducing younger or smaller birds in to a flock as they will be an easier target than birds of a similar size and strength.

House the new ones in a separate run either very close to the already existing run or even inside it. Provide the new chickens with somewhere to shelter and their own supply of food and water. This alone may do the trick and after a couple of days you may be able to let the new additions roam in the main coop with relatively little harassment. However, it may be necessary to use a diversionary tactic in conjunction with this to speed up the process.

A separate run with its own food, water and shelter are invaluable when integrating new chickens

If this is the case, on the first day, withhold all treats from all your chickens then one hour before bedtime scatter some around the run and then pop the new ones in while they are distracted. With any luck they will all be far too distracted to bother about any serious bullying. There might be a bit of bickering but no serious ‘handbags at dawn’ issues.

Day two, repeat the process of withholding treats again but this time you give them two hours before bedtime and day three you do it three hours before time for bed.

Usually this is enough to settle any major issues.

If you still notice any bullying then progress to ….

The water pistol method

Have a water pistol or a well washed squeezy top bottle e.g. washing up liquid container, filled with water ready by the coop. Although it might look as though several of your chickens are picking on the new ones there is likely to be just one ring leader with their trusty henchmen. Once you have identified the instigator of the bullying you simply squirt water at them – avoiding their head so as not to damage eyes, ears or fill nostrils – each time they launch an attack. They soon get the message and hopefully harmony will be restored. I think this works because the chickens then see you as the dominant member of the flock and defer to you.

While this hen looks aggressive you can see that she has been the victim of feather pecking around her tail area

Giving them plenty of room and providing stimulation in the way of simple toys or occasional treats can also help maintain the peace. However, while there should be an air of tranquility most of the time, chickens will always bicker on occasion, this is natural behaviour and in these circumstances you need to let them sort out their own differences. It’s sustained aggressive behaviour that needs to be thwarted ….and quickly.

Note: If a bird develops a bloody or very red wound during a squabble then it is important to separate it from the flock until it heals as the other birds will attack the area relentlessly making it much worse or, in a worse case, even killing it.

What can I say about these little brown hens who have lived all of their lives standing on a wire floored cage with no human contact? I can say with absolute certainty that they are grateful for having been given a chance to live a life of freedom and that they gave me so much more than I ever gave them.

My first adoption

Although I already had a small family of Pekins, I was told I should take some of the better ones. Not knowing exactly what was meant by the term ‘better ones’ and having put six in a large ventilated box and sealed it securely, I had a look around at the other hens waiting to be re-homed. What I saw shook me rigid. My ‘better ones’ were fully feathered but of the other two holding pens one contained very scruffy looking birds and the other hens with barely enough feathers to have fully feathered much more than two chickens in total.

These would not even be the worst looking examples at a rehoming event

However, I left the collection site and headed for home. I could hear my six hens twittering amongst themselves all the way back but they went totally silent when I arrived home and stopped the car engine. I carried them to their new home and donning latex gloves gently lifted them out of the box one by one. Even through my gloves I could feel the coarseness and lack of thickness of their feathers and they weighed so little. They felt so very different to the soft, full feathered bodies of my Pekins. I could tell that one of these new hens didn’t even weigh as much as the Pekins who were only half their size.

I am a person who has to research information on subjects I know little or nothing about. I had done my homework before deciding I had to do something to help – but how little I knew even after all the research I had done. The truth of re-homing an ex-caged hen is very different from what I had read on the internet.

But back to the six new additions to my animal kingdom. Having placed them gently on the ground, I was surprised to see that within seconds of feeling the earth beneath their feet they were already scratching away and pecking at insects. I couldn’t believe it. How on earth did these hens who had never seen the light of day since being hatched know that the earth was for scratching at, for catching insects and, as I learnt the next day, for digging holes to dust bathe?

Basic instincts

Outside of this instinctive behaviour they did have to be taught where their food and water was, as they had only ever been used to pecking at their feed through the bars of a cage.

They also had to be taught where they would sleep each night from now on. For a year they had only ever stood on wire caged floors with no space to stretch their wings nor lie down. One of the things I learnt about ex-battery hens was that they often initially prefer to sleep huddled together in a corner of their hen house. Later some would perch but they always slept in a particular order of what I call the 69 position, that is, one would face in one direction the next one would be facing the other way. By sleeping like this they could get closer together and particularly during the colder winter months it helped to keep them warm.

What amazed me most was how quickly these hens adapted to living life as free hens. Considering they had never had the opportunity to carry out any normal chicken behaviour, whilst living standing in a cage for twelve months, they acclimatized to outdoor living very quickly.

It gave me so much pleasure seeing these six hens change from the straggly, thin, coarse feathered chickens with large, floppy pink combs to being confident, heavier, well feathered hens with red combs which stood upright. I was now on a mission, a mission to help rescue more of these abused hens and give them the opportunity to live out their remaining days, however long that may have been, as happy and free hens.

My mind was made up. However many more hens I was able to adopt, they would be the ones in need of most help. And that is what I did.

Feather dusting

Each group of hens I subsequently re-homed now needed a lot more care. They had to be housed in a sheltered area to prevent getting sunburn (when we did happen to get any sun) and to protect from the bitterly cold winds we get here in Lincolnshire. On hot, sunny days I smothered them in baby strength sun bloc – as it turned out not the greatest idea as they would then dust bathe and end up with soil stuck to their skin. However, as they did enjoy dustbathing so much, lice and mite repellent could be sprinkled into the hole saving me a lot of trouble having to check each hen for signs of any lodgers in their feathers.

The biggest problem any hen keeper fears is an infestation of red mite, especially if the hens live in wooden coops, but with careful planning and the appropriate treatment even this dreaded scourge could be thwarted.

Once each new group of hens had fully settled they were all prepared for a bath in lukewarm water with a drop or two of tea tree oil and lavender oil. Although each hen was treated with a proprietary lice and mite treatment before being handed over to their new owners, I liked to make doubly sure that no little critters had the opportunity to take up residence on one of my hens. This did not mean I never had a problem with lice or mites, every hen keeper has to keep on top of this and I have yet to meet a keeper who has never encountered this problem – but at least it is treatable.

“Let’s get down to some serious scratching”

What surprised me when bathing a chicken was that, although a feisty hen might put up a fight when taken towards the washing up bowl, once she realised the water was warm and that I obviously had no intention of drowning her, she would lower herself into the water and was completely relaxed, enjoying every minute of her bath. Even better, was how much she enjoyed a blow dry with a hair dryer set on warm. Some hens would even chunter away to themselves at the bliss of warm air through their feathers. A great deal of care was called for when it came to bathing the ‘oven ready’ ladies though. I had to ensure the dryer was not on any part of her skin for too long for fear of scalding her but they too greatly enjoyed their bath time.

In sickness and in health

There were occasions when a hen was unwell or really poorly. It was a case of back to the computer and checking up on all the symptoms to try and resolve the issue. I think I was lucky when it came to veterinary help in that there were three vets at my local practice who had a good knowledge of hen problems. One of them was a hen keeper himself and was always prepared to offer advice over the telephone and never once charged me for his time. Only on three occasions did I ever take a chicken into the surgery and that was because I could find no answer to my questions online. To be honest, this particular vet was interested in learning about ex-battery hens and the knowledge I had gained was exchanged for a minimal consultation fee.

Much as I disliked having a sick hen it gave me a new challenge. My job was to try all in my power to make her better. I didn’t win all the battles and it wasn’t only me who grieved at the loss of one of my chickens. It was blatantly obvious that chickens also feel grief. If one of the flock was missing they would call for her and they searched for her. I learned that by letting them see that their friend was no longer alive they accepted that she would no longer roam my garden with them. Every hen would come up to her, walk around her, some would gently peck at her as if to see if she really was gone but in the end they accepted that she had passed on to Rainbow Bridge. It was as though they had all come to pay their respects to her in their own way. Once satisfied that she was no longer alive they would trundle off all muttering to one another; were they talking about her, about the fun times and the bad times, about their communal dust baths etc.? Makes you wonder.

Two of the more unpleasant sides of chicken keeping was having to watch them sort out the pecking order – their way of deciding who will be head hen. There could be some terrible squabbling but it was not always the most dominant hen that came out on top. I have witnessed one of the weaker hens used to being at the bottom of their hierarchy – and presumably fed up with being so – summon up the courage to fight her corner and end up as top hen. The other less pleasant side of ex-battery hen keeping is the very real possibility of losing one of your hens to illness. Some hens do not find it easy to make the transition from cage to coop and may only live a few days after being re-homed but my philosophy now is that at least she died as a free hen who unfortunately did not live long enough to enjoy that freedom.

So, what did I enjoy the most about keeping ex-battery hens? The answer is absolutely everything.

I loved their zest for life, the way they lived each day in the moment. They didn’t worry about what was going to happen tomorrow, they couldn’t have cared less about the price of eggs! My hens gave me dozens of eggs so tasty that people who bought them wouldn’t buy free range eggs from anywhere else. Yes, my chickens were all free ranging. After an initial period of settling in and getting used to being allowed to eat and drink as much as they wanted, whenever they wanted and learning they had a warm bed and a private place to nest and lay their eggs, they were let out of the runs to free range in my garden.

“What have you got for us?”

I loved their curiosity, their cheeky attitude, how comical they were, up to all sorts of tricks and the fact that if I was late taking out their treats in the afternoon they would congregate at the back door and tap on it with their beaks. It sounded like a round of applause but they didn’t stop until I had taken out what they had come for. They showed great intelligence. After all they had been through they trusted me implicitly, talked to me, untied my trainer shoe laces, picked buttons off a jumper or cardigan, pecked me if I had done something they didn’t like and would even jump up on my shoulder and twitter in my ear or pull my hair!

The day the tigers came…

I wouldn’t change a thing about my experience with ex-battery hens except the day, to quote a line in a song from a well known musical,”the tigers came at night”. Except in my case the tiger was an official letter that came on a Saturday morning telling me that I was no longer allowed to keep them and to re-home them forthwith.

It was one of the saddest days of my life. Although all my ex-battery hens were taken in to a very good home and my Pekins went back to the breeder from whom I bought them there is still a huge void in my life but, thankfully, they are all still with me in the nests they built in my heart.

Eirlys Goode is the author of Starting From Scratch which is a collection of experiences from keepers that makes invaluable reading for anyone thinking of rescuing ex-commercial hens. A new and updated version of the book will be available soon.

I want to keep some chickens but don’t know what size or type of coop I should buy
The size of accommodation needed will be dependent on the breed of chickens you buy. Some pure breed hens can grow to a very large size once they are fully matured while medium sized chickens and bantams won’t require quite as much space to live in. As a rule the minimum area you should aim for is 30 cm of perch space per bird in the coop and 1m sq per bird in the run with a min 3m sq (i.e. you shouldn’t keep a single bird and 2 should still have a min 3m sq)

In the coop chickens need sufficient space before settling down for the night so that they can fluff out their feathers, trapping air between them to keep them warm. The combined heat given off by each hen will warm the air within their coop and can be considerable depending on numbers.

Ventilation is crucial. This should be designed so that it doesn’t direct a draft onto your birds while they roost but ensures an ample supply of fresh air too circulate.

There are also many ready made wooden and plastic coops available. There are designs to suit every taste just choose one that is easy to clean and easy to secure from predators. Each has its own pros and cons. Wooden coops tend to be more attractive and available in more styles but plastic is easily cleaned and can help discourage red mite which are a problem for many keepers.

While these commercially available coops are convenient housing, your hens needn’t cost a fortune. You can just as easily convert an existing garden shed, large rabbit hutch or plastic wheely bin holder into a very comfortable home for your birds. Chickens aren’t fussy what their home looks like as long as it is warm and comfortable and they have a quiet, private little corner where they can lay their eggs. An old pet carrier makes an ideal nesting box.

What do chickens eat?
There is a wide variety of proprietary chicken feed most of which comes in pellet form and is designed for different stages of their lives i.e. chicks, growers and laying birds. These may look unappetising but contain all the nutrients your chicken need for a healthy balanced diet.

Layers pellets: visually unappealing but full of essential nutrients these are a complete food source

However, almost without exception, chicken owners I know give their chickens treats as well – sweetcorn, greens, some fruit such as grapes, apple or strawberries and salad leaves are all popular. There are countless other food stuffs that chickens would enjoy but current government policy states that you should not feed your chickens any scraps that have been through a kitchen and now mealworms too. Treats should always be left until at least lunch time or afternoon to ensure your birds have eaten high enough proportion of their nutritionally balanced feed which is what they need to stay healthy and produce those golden yolked eggs with hard as brick shells! Free ranging hens will get much of their intake from foraging grass, plants and insects. Note: Although chickens are omnivorous and will readily eat worms, slugs and other garden beasties you should never feed your chickens meat from the kitchen.

Can you keep chickens in the house?
I certainly wouldn’t recommend keeping chickens in your living environment. Although they do much of their business sitting on the perch at night they will poop whenever they get the urge making it impossible to keep your house sanitary.

Breeders and showers of chickens with fancy plumage, feathered feet or white feathers do often keep their birds inside on deep litter to avoid damage, soiling or yellowing. A large shed or barn offering plenty of space, good ventilation and a natural light source might be suitable. Wherever possible, though, I would always recommend suitable outdoor accommodation.

Smaller birds such as quails (which are actually tiny game birds) can be kept in large cages or hutches. They can still smell a bit so a garage might be better than in the house itself but if cleaned regularly this may be the answer if you particularly want your birds inside. Still provide as much space and daylight as possible.

How many eggs do hens lay?
As with a few of these questions the answer will depend on the breed of chicken you have.

You will get eggs from all chickens but some breeds are much more prolific layers than others. Rhode Island Red, Leghorn, Maran and Sussex amongst others are all purebred breeds that are good layers. These breeds produce from 260 to 300+ eggs a year. There are also hybrids, which are hens created by cross breeding especially for their egg laying ability, that will lay an egg practically every day and may even continue to lay through winter when the pure breeds will stop altogether

Because of the great effort it takes producing eggs at this rate most hybrids lay more eggs but for a shorter length of time – so maybe 3-4 years as opposed to 5-6 or more for pure breeds

Other birds which may be better suited to showing, meat production or as pets may not lay as many eggs so it is best to research the breeds before you buy to avoid the disappointment of too few – or too many – eggs.

A rainbow collection of chicken eggs showing just how diverse the colour range is

Another thing to consider is egg colour. This can vary with breed from pure white to a dark, almost purple, with blue, green, olive and tinted hues also possible and this may also be a factor in your choice of bird.

How long does a chicken live?
It depends on the breed again. The oldest recorded chicken was into its 20s but this is very rare. Many pure breeds can live 8-10 years or more but hybrids tend to be slightly less at 4-6 years.

Do I need a cock bird if I want eggs?
No hens will lay eggs whether there is a cock bird present or not they just won’t be fertilised – a positive for many owners. While male birds are often extremely handsome to look at the fact is that the majority are noisy, some can be aggressive and, depending on the environment they are kept in, can be over amorous to the point that they stress out your hens. Unless you have lots of hens, lots of space and amenable neighbours cock birds can be a bundle of trouble. That said in the right environment they can often help to keep dominant hens in check and be a wonderful addition to any flock that many wouldn’t be without.

Do chickens attract vermin?
In a word, no. Chickens themselves don’t attract vermin (unless you include their predators such as foxes) but any food or treats left around at night will encourage rats and mice in particular. Always clear up any left overs after your chickens have gone to bed and ensure there is no food inside the coop either because mice and rats have been known too chew their way into the coop to get at that too.

Clear up any spills of food to help discourage vermin

Are chickens safe if I have other pets such as cats or dogs?
Generally yes. Usually you will find that a curious cat will investigate but they will get very short change from a chicken by means of a nasty peck on the nose. Having encountered this treatment from a chicken, domestic cats will usually give your birds a wide berth. Smaller breeds are more at risk from cats but remember also that if a cat can get at them then so can a fox, badger or weasel.

Dogs unused to chickens should not be left unsupervised around them

Unless they have been brought up around poultry, dogs should never be left unsupervised if your chickens are free ranging. Don’t forget that, before being domesticated, dogs lived in packs and hunted for food. Any sudden movement from a chicken could trigger the instinct to hunt.

Are chickens noisy?
Cockerels can be and you should probably have a chat with any close neighbours before taking on a male – especially if you are in a urban area. Hens may occasionally make a fuss when they are laying or if they are startled by something but their little day-to-day clucking and chattering is unlikely to have environmental health around.

Do chickens make good pets?
Breeds such as Orpingtons (large, good egg layer), Pekins (bantam) and Silkies (friendly, exotic looking, fluffy feathered variety) all make excellent pets. Many other breeds are also intelligent, friendly and even affectionate although highly strung breeds derived from old fighting stock may be less suitable especially for children. Try to find a local breeder or keeper who will allow you to experience different breeds and their characteristics.

Breeds like this Silver Campine are flighty and can be noisy so may not make the best pets – beautiful though!

How much does a chicken cost?
This depends on many things including pedigree, rarity, characteristics and age. Full grown chickens start at around £4 for an ex-battery hen moving up to £8-£15 for an egg laying hybrid. Pure bred chickens start at around £10-£15 but can be very much more if they are of show quality or a rare or desirable breed. When you are more experienced, and with the right equipment, you could try raising chickens from day old chicks from around £1 each or even from eggs from around 50p each. Remember that there are likely to be a high proportion of unwanted cockerels if raising chickens from a very young age and what you do with them will require prior consideration.

Raising your stock from chicks can be very fulfilling but you will inevitably get a large proportion of cockerels

You will find that, given the opportunity, your hens will display a natural instinct to forage for herbs, plants and flowers. Although some can be poisonous chickens seem to have an uncanny knack for avoiding the worst and with their highly developed sense of smell and taste buds these gourmets of the poultry world will seek out and experiment with a multitude of tastes.

Many plants have healing qualities and are beneficial in our diets and it is much the same for chickens. Below are just a few of the most common or useful ones you could grow or introduce into their diet.

Note: If you collect your herbs from the roadside or from an area that may have been subjected to overspray from pesticides or other chemicals you may want to rinse them under water before your chickens consume them. Also remember that when chickens eat greenery direct from the plant they will be pecking small pieces at a time. Long fibrous material can cause problems with compacted crop so it is a good idea to either cut long strands into shorter lengths or to tie them securely in a bunch and suspend them so they can be pecked at your chicken’s leisure.

Dandelion

An easily identified weed the dandelion is a good source of calcium, vitamins and minerals that are important for your chickens’ health. It has a natural mildly diuretic effect that can help control internal parasites. The whole plant is edible including the roots.

Chickweed

This prolific annual weed grows in many types of soil. It is packed full of nutrition and is a natural pain reliever and cleanser. Feed the leaves and flowers but leave a few flower heads on the plant so they go to seed to ensure a plentiful supply for the following year.

Valerian

Old-school garden perennial that chickens will eat readily. Leaves and flowers make a nutritious, vitamin filled, snack that may help if your chickens seem stressed.

Mint

Fast growing aromatic perennial that grows all year round in a wide range of conditions. Spearmint can help to inhibit the spread of worms in your flock. A few sprigs placed in the coop can also help to repel flies.

Garlic

Added to their water or chopped finely into food, garlic can help to keep worms under control naturally. Garlic is also an antiseptic and can help support your chickens’ immune system against germs or if they are feeling under the weather with a cold.

As well as dishing up these herbs individually you could combine them to make a delicious salad that (with the exception of the Valerian which is not the most pleasant smelling plant) you could also enjoy yourself.

These prepared feeds should be offered in specially designed feeders that have segregated compartments or you will find pellets all over the floor in no time at all. These are best used suspended on a chain at a height that allows easy access but also helps avoid soiling by dirt and faeces.

A well positioned chicken feeder stops mess, waste and soiling

While it is entirely possible that a chicken allowed to free-range would be able to forage an acceptable balanced diet for the keeper who needs to confine their birds to a greater degree there is very little need to feed anything other than these formulations. However, as small-scale keepers it is perfectly understandable that you may want to supplement your birds’ diet with more interesting snacks or treats from time to time. There is nothing to stop you doing this and they will enjoy scratching around for a handful or two of mixed corn in the afternoon or pecking at a head of broccoli or cabbage suspended from their run.

Corn on the cob is a favourite treat for chickens

They will also enjoy sweetcorn, strawberries, grapes or even grass clippings as well as the occasional worm or slug if allowed to roam. It is important to ensure that you keep treats and supplements as a small percentage (no more than 10-20%) of actual intake to avoid upsetting the balance of nutrients. Avoid avocados and uncooked potatoes especially if they are green.

Contrary to popular belief mixed corn or wheat alone is not a suitable diet, especially for layers.

Note: Maize fed in the afternoon when the weather is cold will help to keep them warmer at night.

Feeders, even those with built in covers, should be positioned in a sheltered area as rain still tends to find its way in and you could quickly find several kilos of feed ruined.

Store feeds securely, clean up spills and bring feeders in at night to avoid attracting vermin. Sturdy plastic dustbins with tight fitting lids are good for storing feed.

Supplements

During certain times of year your chickens may benefit from and increase in certain nutrients. During the moult extra calcium and protein can be beneficial and during winter a slight increase in protein can also help them through very cold weather. I find the mixing in growers pellets with their usual feed adds just enough extra protein and egg shells, baked to kill bacteria, crushed finely (so they don’t recognise them as eggs) into their food is a good source of calcium.

Feeding scraps

In a complete turnaround the traditional practice of feeding food scraps from the kitchen to chickens is now banned by DEFRA. If you wish to treat you should do so using foods that haven’t been through any kitchen preparation or use spare produce from your garden.

Water

Chickens drink a surprising amount and should always have a supply of fresh water available. Gravity fed drinkers provide a convenient way of keeping your birds hydrated and, again, should be suspended to avoid soiling. In winter ensure water doesn’t freeze either by checking regularly, clever positioning or with the use of a suitable heat mat.

Grit

If your birds are not free ranging poultry grit should be freely available as this sits in the gizzard and aids digestion by helping to grind the food. Oyster shell can be made available as a source of calcium but isn’t generally necessary if feeding a balanced diet.

Before you start incubating

Before you even start you should consider several things that may present issues later in the process.

Where will you source your eggs?
There are several options available, some more reliable than others. Obviously you can use your own if you have a cock running with your hens. If he is actively treading you can be pretty sure that, depending on exactly how many hens he is in with, most eggs will be fertilised – he’ll be trying his best anyway. You could also contact breeder groups for the type or breed of bird you wish to hatch and they will be able to tell you your nearest member who is supplying hatching eggs. This is a good option as they may be local enough for you to visit, see the breeding stock, and assure yourself of the likely quality of offspring. If you are not so fussy about breed there may be other local breeders able to supply hatching eggs at certain times too.

Eggs received through the post should be allowed to rest pointed end down for 24 hours before beginning incubation

Your other option is to buy eggs directly from the internet which is a great way to source all manner of eggs for unusual breeds of poultry but you do have to remember that they run the gauntlet of the postal system. I know people that have had excellent results from eggs sent in the post but conversely I have had also heard of terrible hatch rates or eggs that arrive damaged or broken. Many suppliers will replace eggs if you have a certain percentage that don’t develop but often insist you send them back for checking first so check terms before you buy.

You are likely to get over 50 per cent cockerels
Many people don’t want even one male to deal with so you need to know what you intend to do when you are suddenly presented with several at one time. You can expect more than 50 per cent of chicks to be males and 60 per cent or more is not unusual. It’s a hard fact of life that most cockerel chicks will be euthanised as soon as they can be identified – which can be as young as day old for auto-sexing breeds.

You may want to keep a cockerel to start your own breeding stock and for this you will want to ensure that he is unrelated to your hens to avoid genetic problems but unfortunately further discussion of this is way beyond the remit of this article.

They can be grown on for meat if you have space and should be okay together until they reach a reasonable size but you will have to separate them should they start fighting.

There may be other options especially if you have a local zoo or animal park that might be able to use chicks or fully-grown birds as feed for reptiles, birds of prey or carnivorous mammals but they may insist on some guarantee that they are disease free. However, larger numbers would need to be disposed of via a local government approved method.

Housing hatched chicks
It is quite unlikely that all your eggs will produce chicks but you should be prepared for a scenario where you have to brood and house the full compliment if you are lucky enough to get a full hatch.

Incubation

An incubator needs to provide the correct environment for hatching. This means the right temperature and humidity to simulate the natural environment. This is different for the various types of poultry as shown below.

The temperature may need to be increased by a degree or two if you have a still air incubator as oppose to a forced air (fan-assisted) one. You should also take the temperature reading at a point just above the eggs.
* Amount of days before hatching you should stop turning the eggs

Most incubators will come with detailed set up and operating instructions which you should read and follow carefully as they can vary significantly from model to model. In still air models it can be more difficult to maintain a constant temperature so consider this when making your purchasing decision.

Incubator containing chicken eggs showing correct readings for both temperature and humidity

You should situate your incubator in an area that has a fairly constant ambient temperature. It should also be away from draughts and direct sunlight preferably somewhere dimly lit.

Cleanliness is vital so you should always wash your incubator before and after every hatch. Use warm soapy water, being careful to avoid any electronic components where necessary. A wipe over with Milton fluid is a good additional precaution.

Always start your incubator running 24 hours ahead of placing your eggs. Make any adjustments to temperature or humidity as required and then check that you can maintain the correct levels consistently. Temperature doesn’t need to be exact but try to keep it within a degree either side of the ideal where possible. Humidity is affected by the surrounding conditions so you may need to decrease or increase the surface area of the water reservoir to achieve the correct level. This can be achieved by covering the reservoir with foil or cling film or adding another water container or a wet sponge into the evaporation chamber respectively.

Water added to the incubator should always be tepid, not cold. Don’t worry too much about temperature changes caused by raising the lid of your incubator to replenish water as, even in a natural scenario, the hen would occasionally leave the nest to eat, drink or relieve herself.

Setting the eggs
Eggs should be as fresh as possible as the chances of successful development reduce over time and any over ten days old should be discarded.

Very dirty eggs should not be used but small amounts can be brushed off. Never wash eggs before placing as this will make the eggs more vulnerable to ingress of bacteria.

Eggs that you receive in the post should be stood to settle with their pointy end down for 24 hours before placing in the incubator.

A mother hen will turn the eggs occasionally to stop the yolk sticking to the shell and it is important to ensure that you have some mechanism in place to ensure this happens in the artificial environment too. Many modern incubators have an auto turning feature which saves you having to remember but manual turning three to four times a day is usually sufficient to avoid problems. You could mark the eggs with a pencil to help you remember when they were last turned if necessary.

Towards the end of the incubation period the eggs should stop being turned to allow the chicks to orientate for hatching. For chickens this is three days but it can vary for other poultry as shown on the chart earlier. At this point the humidity is also increased slightly to about 65-70% using the method described earlier.

All going well your chicks will hatch on time. Before hand you should start to notice pipping (chipping) where the chicks starts to break out of the shell, you may also start to hear noises from within. Pipping can start up to a day ahead of hatching although you can never tell and some chicks will be out in less than an hour after it starts.

Exciting times: Pipping – where the chick starts to break out of the shell – can start up to a day before hatching

Don’t be tempted to open the incubator while chicks are hatching and leave them in there for 24 hours to dry and fluff after they have hatched. Note: While some may come up to a day early any left 24 hours after their specified time are unlikely to produce chicks.

Leave chicks in the the incubator for 24 hours after hatching to dry thoroughly

Some chicks may not survive the hatch and may get stuck at some point during chipping their way out. Although I have seen it work, intervention rarely helps, as these will often be weak birds that can develop problems later on.

Candling eggs

Candling is the technique of shining a bright light into an egg to allow you to determine if it is developing as expected. Whilst not strictly necessary it is advised as eggs that don’t develop and go bad can split or even explode which then causes problems with bacteria for the remaining eggs.

The technique is very simple and, even to the untrained eye, the tell-tale signs of a developing chick can be seen from about four days. However, four days is a crucial stage of development so eggs are best left until 7-10 days for a first look when it will also be more obvious which are developing and which were infertile or have stopped.

Clearly visible the tiny growing embryo and blood vessels at four days old

You can get special candling torches but any high-intensity, low-heat light source will do. LEDs bike lights are great and even bigger torches can be used by shining the light up through an egg rested on a cutout in a cardboard box. Just avoid heating the egg up too much

Start shining the light through the fat end (this is where the air sac is) of the egg and adjust positioning to give a better view if necessary. Thicker or darker egg shells can make it more difficult to see development.

Those that show no signs of development should be discarded but if you are unsure, gently mark them, return them to the incubator and try looking again in a few days time.

Brooding

When the chicks are dry they can be moved to a brooder box. This can be bought but, for small-scale hatchings, brooder boxes often made from large plastic storage boxes or other large high-sided container. You will need to supply a heat source until the chicks are fully feathered. For a small amount of chicks you can often get away with a 60 watt fire glow light bulb but for more you may want to invest in a infra red brooder lamp, which can be suspended over a larger brooding enclosure, or an electronic brooding device.

Initially you need to provide the same temperature as the incubator but this can be reduced each week by about 5 degrees by moving the heat source up. You will get a good indication as to if you have it right from the chicks themselves. If they are too cold they will huddle together tightly and may sound distressed, if they are too warm they will stand away from the heat source and may pant.

Current thinking advocates special anti-slip matting as a liner for the brooder to protect from splayed leg in the developing chicks. I have found this is good for the first couple of days but I tend to return to dust extracted wood shavings after that. Sawdust is a definite no-no as it is bad for both respiratory system if dust is inhaled and digestive system if eaten. Clean play sand is also used to good effect.

They will make a mess and will poo anywhere and everywhere so clean them out regularly to deter bacteria or other pests from colonising the brooder.

Feeding chicks

Chicks can happily survive on the remaining yolk they have absorbed during the first 24-48 hours but it is best to have food and water available in the brooder from the outset. ‘Introduce’ the chicks to the water so they know where to find it. Special chick drinkers are essential as they can easily drown even in the relatively shallow water of an open dish. Feed chick crumb developed for the breed of bird you have hatched to ensure they have the correct balance of nutrients. Medicated crumb can protect against conditions, such as coccidiosis, that can kill chicks very rapidly but is not suitable for all poultry and especially not ducks or other waterfowl.

As the chicks grow

As they grow you may need to move them to a larger enclosure, still with a heat source, until the feathers are fully formed. At about 6-8 weeks they will be ready to move to their own coop and can be started on growers pellets (crushed slightly and mixed with crumb initially) until they reach maturity at about 18-20 weeks.

You can buy brooders but if you only intend to hatch a few birds you can make a simple DIY alternative from easily sourced materials for just a few pounds. The basis of this one is a clear plastic storage box (with lid) that can be found at your local home store or online. I would suggest a minimum box height of 30cm (12″) but the one used in this project is 38cm (15″) for extra security. Internal dimensions are 70cm (28″) x 30cm (12″) but anything that amounts to about this is fine for approx 6-12 chicks depending on breed.

Build time:

Quick: 15-30 minutes

Difficulty:

Easy

Materials:

(see main pic)
Large clear plastic storage box
Angled lamp holder
60W fire glow bulb
Nut and bolt
4 air vents (Vivarium type) – optional
Anti-slip mat – optional

Tools:

Drill
Hacksaw blade
Hole cutter drill bit – optional

Method

1. Cut holes for the air vents equally spaced around the upper half of the box. You can do this with a hacksaw blade but it’s both quicker and neater using a hole cutter bit of the appropriate size. I used plastic, push in vents, of the types that are found in vivariums. These required a 50mm hole and can be found very cheaply on the internet or at you local supplier. You could, of course, just drill holes around the top of the box if you prefer.

The vents positioned safely at the top of the box

2. Drill holes at 1 inch interval at one end of the box to allow you to fix your bulb holder at differing heights. You will need to raise the bulb up as the chicks develop and grow. I found this clamp on model that provides a good angle and has a mounting hole already included in the design. The bulb holder is secured with a small nut and bolt

3. Cut a slot for the cable to sit in allowing the lid to fit flush.

4. Cut your anti-slip mat to size. You can use dust-extracted wood shaving or sand instead of the anti-slip mat but, whatever you use, the floor needs to offer enough grip to avoid the chicks suffering from splayed leg.

There you have it, a perfect, easy to clean, brooding box. Depending on what you are hatching you may need to move your chicks to a larger container as they grow but, with the addition of a chick feeder and drinker, this is all you need to give them a great start.

There are currently 10 recognised breeds of turkey in the UK all of which are descended from wild American birds. Males are referred to as stags, females are hens and youngsters chicks or poults. The range of colours includes: black, bronze, red, pied, slate blue and white.

Originally brought over from North America to mainland Europe with the Spanish Conquistadors, they were introduced to the UK in the 16th Century. Several breeds were developed throughout Europe with some even shipped back across the pond where they have been re-crossed with the wild variety to create new standards over there. As well as the pure bred varieties there are now commercially developed birds that are faster growing and have broad, ‘double breasted’, characteristics.

As with all livestock, including chickens, you need to make sure that you are actually allowed to keep turkeys on your land. Although you don’t have to register your property as a holding for turkeys it is not unusual for terms in your deeds to forbid the keeping of certain livestock and/or poultry.

You also have to consider noise. Female turkeys do have quite a vocabulary and mature males do gobble vociferously. If raising for Christmas this does not usually present a problem but if you intend to keep them for a longer term it’s perhaps worth a discussion with any close neighbours to avoid complaints later on. As with chickens, if you aren’t intending to breed, you can of course keep hens without a stag.

All are big birds, although the impressive plumage of male birds can make them seem even bigger than they actually are. With a good wind behind them and a slope to launch from male birds may be able to take to the air for short distances but will generally stay on terra firma. If they do feel inclined to perch in a tree they generally prefer to hop up the branches rather than fly. However, females are perfectly capable of flying at a reasonable height and distance. Remember this when devising a daily routine as, given the chance, ‘untrained’ birds will often take to the trees to roost.

Which breed of Turkey?

If your interest is mainly birds for the table these commercial strains are a good bet. The fact that they are raised in their thousands for supermarkets has no bearing on the ability of the smallholder to achieve an excellent quality finished bird at a more personal level.

A breeding group of Norfolk Blacks. Pic Turkey Club UK

For those of you who want to go with a traditional breed the clear favourites are the Norfolk Black or the larger Bronze (lead pic) which is very similar to the wild Eastern turkeys they are descended from. Other varieties can still be used but many have been developed more for exhibition than the table so may prove to be lacking in bulk.

Pied (Crollwitzers) are ornamental but good egg layers. Pic Turkey Club UK

Alternatively, if meat is not your primary concern, the attractive looking Cröllwitzer (pied) variety, which is well suited to the show pen, is also a good egg producer.

Housing requirements

Turkeys require a larger area than chickens for housing but four birds can be accommodated in a 6′ x 4′ (1.8m x 1.5m) shed with space requirements growing proportionally for larger numbers ie 6′ x 8’ (1.8m x 2.4m) for six birds and so on. Make sure there is adequate ventilation – without being draughty – but ensure ventilation holes are secured with wire to deter predators. They will also need a sturdy three inch diameter perch about two feet (60cm) from the ground – any higher than this increases the risk of injuries, which can lead to the condition bumblefoot, when they jump down. If you are intending to house them inside over winter space requirements will increase again.

Bourbon Red turkeys perching in an 8ft x 6ft shed which, with ventilation, is ideal for six turkeys. Pic Turkey Club UK

It is important to keep litter clean and dry as mould spores and the bacteria and ammonia from faeces can cause all manner of respiratory problems. Dust extracted wood shavings or preparatory products such as easychick make a good litter for internal housing.

It’s perfectly reasonable to consider turkeys for a backyard but you need to make sure you can fulfil your responsibilities to provide a stress free environment. If you do need to confine them your pen will need to be at large enough, engaging enough and at least 6’ (1.8m) high to discourage escape – even then a determined female could still escape unless the run is fully enclosed.

Individual breed housing and pens. Pic Turkey Club UK

You may also think that their more impressive frame would deter foxes or other predators but this is absolutely not the case and you still need to take security very seriously.

Feeding

From birth turkeys require a higher level of protein in their diet than chickens. Special turkey formulas are available from chick crumb through to growers and finisher pellets. These can be supplemented with a handful of wheat in the afternoons from around 16 weeks.

A supply of fresh water is essential as drinking from muddy puddles or other unhygienic sources can be a contributing fact to the spread of disease.

You will also need to make sure that they have access to grit to aid digestion whether it’s available via forage or supplied by you. If you are keeping your turkeys as pets they might like the occasional grape, peanut or ear of sweetcorn as a treat but, for those being reared for meat, treats are unnecessary and can affect the growth cycle.

Feeding schedules for raising chicks from day old are discussed in more detail below.

Health issues

Adult turkeys are fairly robust and cope well with the UK weather. The main concern for keepers will be blackhead disease (histomoniasis) which affects the liver and is caused by a protozoan parasite. Chickens can be carriers but tend to be quite resistant whereas it will, more often than not, kill turkeys. For this reason it is not recommended to keep turkeys with chickens or on land previously occupied by them. Strangely, although it can cause some bluish discolouration of the head, the condition is more easily identified by yellowish, watery droppings. Since the most effective treatment for blackhead was banned in this country the only real way to prevent the disease is through good husbandry including a regular, 6 weekly, worming routine that can help disrupt the lifecycle of the worm. Flubenvet is the only licenced wormer for poultry in this country and is available via vets or licenced online suppliers.

Blackhead aside you should also be vigilant for more general poultry diseases such as mycoplasma and coccidiosis which are serious but can be treated more effectively if caught in time.

Raising turkeys for Christmas

The time to start raising for Christmas is largely dependant on the type of bird you chose. Traditional breeds are slower to mature than commercial stock and these will usually be hatched in May or June as opposed to July to achieve size by December. However, growing your birds more slowly improves the taste so it can be better to start them earlier and have them on a holding ration, such as white oats, for the few weeks up to Christmas. Flavour is also improved if you hang the complete bird for about a week before eviscerating a couple of day prior to use.

On your first attempt you may want to start with 6 week old poults, which, by this age, are fully feathered and a bit more robust than the notoriously feeble youngsters. These older birds will also be fully conversant with eating and drinking – something chicks may need to be shown. However, it is more rewarding for the beginner to raise stock from day old chicks. Day olds will cost about £4 each (much less than poults that can be up to £12) and you will need to provide a safe, draught free environment with a heat lamp for anything from 3-6 weeks depending on the time of year and ambient temperature. Judging temperature can be difficult at first but if they are panting move the lamp up a bit and if they are huddling together it is probably too cold.

Turkey chicks need careful handling but you don’t necessarily need to employ a young child for the job

Be prepared for some mortality in your chicks, especially if you have many brooding together, as they can easily get suffocated or squashed when in groups. Make sure you have appropriate chick drinkers too as they can also drown in even relatively shallow water. Note: You should never hatch or brood turkey and chicken chicks together as the chickens are generally much stronger.

For the first 4-6 weeks feed only turkey crumb, which is high in protein, before gradually introducing turkey growers pellets which they can remain on until 12-16 weeks. They can then be switched to a finisher ration or breeder ration depending on whether you are rearing for the table or as a pet/show/breeding bird. Note: Turkey feeds will often recommend a feeding schedule on the packaging. Make sure you have a local feed supplier who stocks or can order turkey feeds as not all carry them as standard.

If you do want to hatch eggs turkeys do make good mothers and hens do go broody readily. Mating season starts around the end of January with laying starting about a month later. During this time many keepers will put turkey saddles (canvas or leather waistcoats) on females to protect them from injury by amorous males. Eggs take 28 days to incubate and during this time you may need to encourage the mum to take food/drink/poo breaks as they can become preoccupied, or even obsessive, and ignore these fundamental bodily functions. When hatched they will need their own space. This shouldn’t be too removed from the main flock (to avoid re-integration problems) but allow some space and privacy for the new family.

If you don’t have an obliging turkey hen, a broody chicken hen or mechanical brooder can also be used to hatch chicks which can then be moved to a brooding area and raised as above.

Dispatching your turkey

When the time comes this should only be undertaken by someone who is trained and licenced so you need to ensure that either you have the qualifications in place or that you have a local supplier who can act for you. Even if you are experienced in dispatching smaller poultry such as chickens, handling a 25lb+ turkey can be somewhat different and other, more appropriate, methods can avoid damage to the carcas (important if you intend to sell to the general public) or injury to yourself. It goes without saying that Christmas will be a busy time and if you do need to employ someone make sure you book their services in advance to avoid having your festive dinner still wandering around the yard over Yuletide. If relying on a third party it is worth checking that there is some system in place to identify your birds throughout the process as it is not unknown for them to get mixed up and return the wrong birds.

Where to get your turkeys

Whatever way you intend to raise your birds you would be well advised to join Turkey Club UK which offers support and advice for new and experienced keepers alike and will have the best contacts for stock. The club also runs an annual show, at the National Poultry Show, which is a great place to see the various breeds and talk to owners.

Turkey Eggs

Turkey eggs are large and attractively speckled. They taste very similar to chicken eggs but are highly prized for cooking and baking as they are thought to impart an extra richness. A hen can lay up to 100 eggs during the laying season which usually starts in March and continues until July. A single turkey egg can fetch 70p or more.

Turkeys, not just for Christmas?

Okay, some are, but as with any livestock you must consider how they will be cared for if you need time away for holiday or sickness etc. Your responsibility remains whatever the reason for your absence so make sure you have a strategy in place for care during these times.

So should you consider Turkeys as your poultry of choice?

Stag turkey showing elongated snood and caruncles – the ladies find this attractive believe it or not!

These impressive looking birds are less likely to be kept as pets but there is a lively show scene and they do offer the prospect of a niche product/income from the eggs, being highly regarded by bakers, and wing feathers that are used to fletch traditional style arrows.

The fact that commercial breeds reared for meat, even from day old chicks, can take only six months may also be appealing for those who would rather not be tied by their livestock all year.

All-in-all, turkeys offer a great alternative to chickens, or even other livestock. Even factoring in the concerns over blackhead and the slightly weedy disposition of the chicks, with good husbandry, they shouldn’t prove any more difficult to keep. Is bigger better? That’s for you to weigh up.

The featherless neck is caused by a gene mutation thought to have first emerged in Romania (hence the name) or Hungary although this trait has been seen in other European countries and the Middle East too. It is also displayed in other bird species such as ostriches and storks although it is not clear whether the same feather blocking molecule is responsible. The breed was developed largely in Germany and examples were documented in Britain from the 1870s but it wasn’t until the 1920s that they became more widespread.

Strangely, the birds retain a feathered crown, looking a bit like a toupée, but have a completely naked neck and around half the amount of feathers on their body as you would find on normally feathered birds.

Here you can see the small area of feathered crown

Naked necks are actually yellow skinned but exposure to the sun turns the bald areas a bright red colour, much as you find in turkeys. Males also have a large single comb and large wattles.

This trait means that they are able to cope better in warmer climates than other breeds and this has made them (and their hybrids) popular in hot countries such as Mexico and Southern France where their meaty frame and easily plucked plumage is well suited to the broiler industry. They also lay a good amount of eggs, often year round, making them a great dual purpose choice for the smallholder too.

In addition to this, the breed is considered hardy, resistant to disease and, despite its lack of feathers, still fairs well in colder conditions. They are also enthusiastic foragers who will need little in the way of additional food for those who can offer a suitable free-range existence. All of which begs the question – why don’t we see them used more often?

A great all rounder that is still seen a novelty in Britain

Is it because they are not traditionally attractive? Maybe so but I myself think their striking looks and sociable personalities put them streets ahead of some other poplar breeds. Females are good mothers and, although they can struggle to maintain enough temperature for large clutches of eggs (due to their lack of feathers), they will readily raise small broods.

Transylvanian Naked Necks are not widely shown in this country, possibly due to the lack of a breed club, so exhibiting good examples will give you an excellent chance of a rosette. This is especially true at the larger shows, with breed specific classes, where more popular breed classes are highly contested.

Oh, and there is a bantam version if you like ‘em diddy too.

Facts and Figures

Classification: rare soft feather: heavy

Standard colours: black, white, cuckoo, buff, red, and blue

Weight: Male – 3.9kg (bantam 965g)
Female – 3kg (bantam 850g)

Eggs: Light brown/brown